Nave Lagoa

The rain in Spain stays mainly in the plain; tips for rainy days in Portugal

My Fair Lady was a musical film released in the 60s, directed by George Cukor, with Audrey Hepburn and Rex Harrison in the leading roles. It received good reviews and numerous awards, including the Oscar for best film.

Although in Spain the exhibition of films in its original version is gradually increasing, it was previously only possible to see the films in a dubbed version. In the case of musical films, such as My Fair Lady, the lyrics of the songs were also translated, which was sometimes a real challenge to get them to fit the original music. In order to maintain the metric or the rhythm, the translators needed to make small changes to the original lyrics. In the case of one of the songs of My Fair Lady, which in English was called “The rain in Spain”, the change was radical and became “La lluvia en Sevilla es una pura maravilla” (the rain in Seville is a pure marvel). The reason in this case was to fit the circumstances of the scene where the song was featured.

This scene was where the character of Eliza Doolittle had difficulties with the correct pronunciation of the letters “ai”, which in English sometimes adopts the sound [ei] and so the teacher uses the phrase “the rain in Spain stays mainly in the plain” as a speech exercise to help Eliza improve her pronunciation. The problem is that in Spanish in the phrase “the rain in Spain stays mainly in the plain” did not rhyme well and there was not much challenge as a speech exercise since those words are pronounced as they are written. Hence, and it did not have much logical argument to keep to the original lyrics. The writers therefore chose to refocus the sentence on the pronunciation of the double “l”, which not everyone pronounces in the same way.

It must be said that the problem with the phrase and the song was not only in the Spanish version. In the German version, the song changed to “Es grünt so grün wenn Spaniens Blüten blühen“, which means “The greenness is so green when the flowers bloom in Spain”. In Italian it was “La rana in Spagna gracida in campagna“, that would be “The frog in Spain croaks in the field”. However, none of these versions has been as successful as the Spanish one, where the phrase penetrated deep into popular culture and even today, more than 60 years after the premiere of the film, it is still common to hear it when a rainy day arrives in Seville.

Well, paraphrasing this anecdote it could be said that “The rain in Portugal, can also be practical.” To begin with, because it is that rain that keeps the green landscapes so lush which is a characteristic attraction of the Portuguese geography. This is also what allows Portugal to be one of the leading countries in renewable energy, thanks to abundant hydroelectric power. On a more personal level, because it allows you to stay at home, light the fireplace and enjoy a quiet afternoon filled with the fragrance of a rainy day. Or even embark on a journey of discovering some places and activities less known by tourists which can guarantee a great afternoon of family fun.

We can start with one of the newest, the Quantum Park, in Lisbon, which offers one of Europe’s largest indoor surfaces of trampolines, climbing areas, skate ramps, and basketball courts.

Another classic for rainy days is the Oceanário de Lisboa, which in 2018 was chosen as the best aquarium in the world by Tripadvisor, and always offers plenty of quality and interesting activities for the whole family.

For those who are in the Oeste region and do not want to make it all the way to Lisbon, there are also closer plans which are equally enjoyable. The Bowling Caldas, next to the municipal sports area, offers bowling, games, karaoke and, sometimes, even live music. And in that same line, another interesting plan is the Indoor Karting Caldas da Rainha, which has a small but fun kart track, and an area with snooker and karaoke.

A different kind of excursion is to visit the grutas Mira de Aire, which are located a few kilometers from Fatima and constitute the largest group of caves in Portugal. At the time when its commercial exploitation began in the 70s, there was less sensitivity for the preservation of nature, and some people may think that the caves have too much human intervention. But the experience is still very interesting and the children love the adventurous element.

Then there is always surfing, which you can continue enjoying quite as much, as you end up more or less equally wet with rain or without it. And even golf; under the rain is a little less pleasant, but you can still play, and if you choose the links of Praia del Rey or West Cliffs, you can get into an experience very similar to what the inventors of this sport in the British Isles would have had in their time (and which the Ryder Cup contestants have had to face from time to time on the British courses).

And, to close as we started, one of our favorite plans is to go to the La Vie shopping center in Caldas, and see a good movie. Most of the films are in the original version, with subtitles in Portuguese. The restaurants in this shopping center share a food court, which allows everyone to choose what they want, for the whole family to find something to their liking and for the rainy afternoon to finish with very good grades.

We open the forum and welcome more ideas for rainy days.

The best golf courses in the Oeste region

The binge-watchers will remember The West Wing, a TV show that was very popular for seven seasons between the end of the last century and the beginning of the present. It was a political thriller starring Martin Sheen that offered a new perspective into the inner workings of the White House.

It was during those same years that took place the design and initial development of what is now one of the biggest attractions in Portugal and a real luxury for any golf lover: the four courses in the lagoa de Óbidos area. Praia del Rey, Guardian Bom Sucesso, Royal Obidos and West Cliffs are four excellent courses, all of them already decorated with numerous international awards and a good chance of many more with their rising reputation. It is truly amazing they offer golf players the opportunity to play in four world-class courses within a mere five-minute drive of each other. Paraphrasing the TV show, we could call them “The West Swing”.

Today, with many of you practicing again your swings for the holiday weeks ahead, we are going to present some of the features of these four courses and some ideas and tips for those who do not know them yet.

The first of the courses to open its doors was Praia del Rey, in 1997. Designed by Cabell B. Robinson, it combines holes between pine forests and links along the ocean. The wind can sometimes be the biggest challenge, so those who do not have time to play a full round may have to choose depending on the weather conditions of that day; the back nine have spectacular views of the Atlantic coast but they are also the most challenging if the wind is blowing.

Guardian Bom Sucesso opened in 2008, with the advantage of being located in a stunning design and architecture resort, with houses crafted by some of the best architects in the world. Another curious element in Bom Sucesso is that, being in the universe of the European Tour, it regularly hosts professional events and activities, which allows the amateur player to see how closely, or far away, their cards are from those of the professionals. Here you can see for example the card of the players who played the Q School of the European Tour in October 2018 and 2019.

The course was designed by Donald Steel and although it has some interesting and complicated holes, overall it can be said that it has a level of difficulty somewhat lower than that of the neighboring courses, especially since it is less exposed to the wind. From the tee of the spectacular 17th hole we can enjoy the best views of the entire area.

The third course in chronological order was Royal Óbidos. It was the last course designed by the great Seve Ballesteros and has some holes that confirm Seve’s promise to create a wonderful place for golf here. If we can only do nine holes, it is worth choosing the front nine, which look towards the lagoa de Óbidos area and include the charismatic 3rd hole, a par 3 with an island green where it is necessary to combine the maximum precision in choosing the club and to avoid getting distracted by the beautiful views of the lagoon.

The last of the courses to open, in 2017, was West Cliffs, which started with great momentum after being chosen the “Best new course in the world” by the World Golf Awards. Designed by Cynthia Dye, the granddaughter of the legendary Pete Dye, it is a demanding course but one of great natural beauty among the dunes.

The four courses offer good deals to try a different one every day and they also offer special prices in the off-season and in the late afternoon games.

As if that wasn’t enough to whet the appetite of any keen golfer, it is necessary to mention two other interesting golf options. First, halfway between Óbidos and Lisbon, in the Torres Vedras area, is the Dolce Campo Real, an 18-hole course designed by Martin Ebert whilst he was still on the Donald Steel design team. The course opened in 2005 and has been gradually consolidating since. In 2016, it was chosen the best golf resort in Portugal in the Global Brand Awards. It is a different course, with many more trees, and slopes that can be a good workout for those looking for a good dose of exercise whilst indulging in their favourite pastime of golf.

  And, finally, a less orthodox option but one that may also be of interest, would be the nine-hole course in Botado, next to the MH Atlántico hotel, 1 km south of Peniche. It is much less maintained, even a bit wild in some areas, but precisely because of this it benefits from having less players and it can be the ideal option for beginners or families with children that can go into the course without much pressure. And being next to the beaches of Supertubos and Consolação, it has some holes with views of the ocean very comparable to those of its neighbors of greater pedigree. In short, an interesting alternative to complete the golf options in this scenic area.

And you? Have you played in these courses? Do you have special memories of a hole in particular?

Go West

In English it is frequently said that curiosity killed the cat. The origin of the expression goes back several centuries; even Shakespeare used a similar formula in one of his works, and it has continued to be used to this day. What is not so well known is a second part, which began to be used at the beginning of the 20th century in the United States; it says that satisfaction brought it back. This is intended to express that, while an excess of curiosity can be dangerous or counterproductive, the fact of finding satisfactory answers can compensate for the risk or effort.

 

In Nave Lagoa we like seeking satisfaction through the answers. We are going to use this blog to share discoveries, create a small community in which we help each other with clues to navigate the roads, physical or cultural, and the written and unwritten rules of the Oeste region of Portugal. We will talk about the lesser known experiences of Óbidos, Nazaré, Caldas da Rainha or Peniche, the most recommended beaches and also about plans for those who do not like the sand so much.

 

We will share experiences around multiple topics, from what is an RNH (which is not a new blood factor), to why in this area those who seek to rediscover oneself sometimes achieve it earlier relying on a surfguru that with more traditional help.

 

To begin with, today we will explain the differences between ecovias, ciclovias and ecopistas, which may sound similar but are not the same. We are going to do it with three local examples:

 

Ecovía Várzea da Rainha: An ecovia can be traveled on foot or by bicycle and usually connects areas of environmental interest. In the information from the Cámara Municipal de Óbidos you can see well described and detailed the one we like the most in the area, which goes from the Óbidos train station to the beach of Bom Sucesso at the lagoa. It includes around 15 kms of trail (and only 500 m of road) that go through fields of fruit trees and then border the south of the lagoon. The highlight here, woubl be the views of Óbidos Castle from the road at sunset. If possible, try to avoid going during weekends of good weather as there can be too much human noise disturbing the tranquility of the lagoon.

 

Ciclovía São Pedro de Moel: A ciclovia is a bike path, a space for the circulation of bicycles. In the province of Leiria you can find one of the best examples that a cyclist can find in the world: the Ciclovia Estrada Atlántica. From Nazaré to the North there are more than 100 km of asphalt lane, parallel but physically separated from the road, and with a spectacular route among forests, dunes and small fishing villages. The section that we like most runs between the lighthouse of São Pedro de Moel and Praia da Vieira. This section has 14 kms of great beauty but it is also worth exploring all the rest of the sections of the Estrada Atlantica and its special atmosphere.

 

Ecopista do Vouga: And finally, the word that gives title to this entry, and that is clearly the most evocative of the three because it inevitably leads one to think about ideas and clues to enjoy the most of Nature, of Nature with a capital N. An ecopista is usually an old railway route reconverted to a pedestrian or cyclist route. This is what in Spain and other European countries are called Greenways but in Portugal are called Ecopistas because the denomination of Via Verde was already used for automatic lanes on toll roads and the devices to use them. The ecopistas tend to be roads of great scenic beauty, in places with little or no traffic. In Portugal there are several, especially in the North, but we especially like the Vouga one, which runs parallel to the river between Viseu and the vicinity of Aveiro.

 

Do you know other routes in the area that are worthwhile exploring? Please share your experiences with us.