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Tag: Peniche

Surf events in the Oeste region

A tennis fan can hardly ever play on the Centre Court of Wimbledon or at Roland Garros. A golf fan will probably never have the opportunity to play in Augusta or St. Andrews. And football fans would surely be willing to pay absurd amounts of money to play one day at the Santiago Bernabeu or Wembley.

Exactly the opposite of surfing, which has the peculiarity that anyone can easily buy or rent a board and live first-hand the same waves of Ericeira, Supertubos or Nazaré, where three of the most important events in the world of surfing take place.

In the more than 100 km of coast of the Oeste region there is a wide range of possibilities of surfing, for all levels. And any day is fine to go and find good waves. But the end of the summer adds three world-class appointments for surfers: the World League events in Ericeira in October, in Peniche in March and the giant waves season in Nazaré, that runs from October to March.

Supertubos

The waves at Supertubos are considered the European version of the famous Hawaiian Pipeline, with the advantage that the seabed is sandy and without the dangerous reefs of the Hawaiian. On the other hand, you may need a much thicker websuit. In Ericeira the temperature is more or less the same but the town has that cool charm so appealing to those who start to know the surf world.

Ericeira

To regain strength, a very popular option in Peniche, right on the beach, a few meters from Supertubos, is the Xakra, whose tables are also a very popular spot all year round. In Ericeira, Furnas is the place to go, with its great views and its high quality.

The accommodation offer is also extensive. It covers all the spectrum, from the typical mini-vans of the youngest, to campsites near the beach, from hostels and apartments to bio-eco-resorts, and there are even some conventional hotels. For its good value for money we highlight two: the Kate Kero, in the center of Peniche, with good access to restaurants, shops and the bustle of the city; and the recently renovated MH Atlántico, for the opposite reasons, since it is right on the beach, and you can easily reach Consolação and Supertubos by foot and make the most of the waves from dusk to dawn.

In Nazaré, the giant wave season in Praia Norte lasts from October to March although there may always be some big storms outside those dates that also allow you to watch the monster-waves up to 30 meters high, only suitable for expert surfers. At the end of October Nazaré also hosts the Big Wave Challenge annual awards, where all the big names of the big waves get together.

Nazaré

In this link there is a very interesting video of the World Surf League explaining how these giant waves are formed, due to a submarine canyon several kilometers long that is just south of the cape.

To stay in Nazaré, a good option, in the center, is the Hotel Magic. And to eat, our favorite options are Rosa dos Ventos and A tasquinha, although the excellent level makes the experience almost always great in most places. In fact, one of the biggest fans of this blog always remembers that in Nazaré he ate the best wild sea bass he has ever eaten.

Whether as a surfer or as a spectator, with accommodation in a minivan or in hotels, the waves and the collective good vibes are guaranteed and the experience is really worth it.

Plans for days of extreme heat in Portugal

We played in a previous entry with the idea that many people are even grateful when a rainy day comes in summer in Portugal and they have the perfect excuse to make different plans to the typical surf, beach and golf.

At the opposite extreme would be hot days. But, in one more example of how extremes meet, we see that practically all of the plans that we mentioned for those rainy days are also valid for days of extreme heat.

And there are also some additional ones. In an article in the Diario de Noticias during the August 2018 heat wave, Cabo Carvoeiro was cited as one of the coolest places in mainland Portugal:

https://www.dn.pt/pais/interior/fugir-do-calor-conheca-os-locais-mais-frescos-de-portugal-continental-9672712.html

And it is true that anyone who has visited the cape, with its impressive cliffs and its marvelous views of the coast and the Berlengas Islands, will have noticed that in this space of wild fusion between land and sea almost always does, at least, a gentle cool breeze.

Another plan along the same lines would be the Foz de Arelho cliffs, with their views over the sea and the lake. The plan combines especially well with the pleasant chill-outs on the Foz de Arelho beach.

And also in that line of chill-out, the garden in Areias do Seixo, where you can enjoy in good company the always pleasant combination of the night, the fire and the stars.

5 tips to enjoy Easter in the Oeste region of Portugal

1. Processions in Óbidos

Óbidos receives thousands of visitors all year round but at Easter the usual festive atmosphere stops for a couple of hours to solemnly welcome its main procession, the Burial of the Lord, which is celebrated on Good Friday night and is followed with devotion by many people dressed in costumes of the time. http://www.semanasantaobidos.pt/

2. Folar de Páscoa

In all the central area of the country, one of the most typical traditions at Easter is to eat the Folar de Páscoa, a sweet bread made with flour, eggs, sugar, and cinnamon. The Folar can be decorated also with hard-boiled eggs and is sometimes also eaten with cheese, ham, and a glass of wine. If you haven’t tried it yet, we especially like the one they prepare at the Atelier do Doce, between Caldas da Rainha and Alcobaça, which has received numerous awards. https://atelierdodoce.pt/produto/folar-de-bronze/

3. The waves of Peniche

Although there are more and more brave people who also dare to ride the waves during the winter, Easter traditionally marks the beginning of the surf season on the beaches of Peniche. The temperatures, both outside and in the water, are beginning to become more pleasant and thousands of surfers start or resume their passion for the waves.

Surf in Peniche

4. Flamingos in the Lagoa

The end of winter also normally marks the time when the wetlands are at their peak and it is easy to see some of the flamingo families that nest in the lagoa de Óbidos during the winter season.

Flamingos in the Lagoa de Óbidos

5. Sardoal

We end with a suggestion that is not geographically within the Oeste region but is very close, and it is perfect for a day trip. Sardoal is a small town on the A23, near Abrantes, with deep religious traditions. During the procession of the Bonfires, public lighting is turned off and there is only light from torches and hundreds of small lamps that are placed in the windows and balconies of the houses. The churches are decorated with carpets of flowers and in the Main Church they put also wheat germinated in the dark, which gives it a particular yellow tone.http://www.cm-sardoal.pt/images/CMS/SemanaSanta2023/cartaz_semana_santa_2023_final.jpg

Asian Travelers are back

All cultures appreciate the mixture of simplicity and depth that Chinese proverbs have been offering since ancient times. We especially like the one from Lao Zi that says that a journey of a thousand miles begins with the first step.

For decades China has been a disciplined and powerful but very self-centered country. But in the 21st century, for several internal and external reasons, China has taken off as a great global power, moving from an economy based on low-cost manufactures to a more complete one, in which new technologies have great importance. This has generated very powerful companies, with great export strength, which have started to gain a global presence that is more than remarkable. And it has also given rise to a growing middle class, with the capacity to travel and to enjoy previously impossible luxuries.

To understand the economic importance that these new travelers can have, according to the official information from the Ministry of Tourism of Portugal, in 2017 a Spanish tourist spent an average of 89 euros a day in Portugal, while a Chinese one spent 642 euros. That is, a Chinese tourist spent in one day what a Spanish did in a whole week. The pandemic meant a total stop in these trips but they resumed in 2023 and at an exceptionally high rate: in the ten days around the Chinese New Year there have been nearly 2 billion movements of Chinese citizens.

Therefore, it is not surprising that there is a growing interest in Europe to try to re-attract this type of tourists, to offer them something that makes them want to come back again and to recommend the trip to their millions of compatriots. And what attracts this type of traveler most?

In the first place, and surprising as it may seem, the weather. A day with blue skies and cool temperatures, with a light breeze, is one of the elements that can most attract an Asian traveler, who often suffers at home from hot humid days, with a sticky and uncomfortable heat. That is why it is easier to have a more positive experience in the cool summers of the Spanish and Portuguese Atlantic coast than in the Mediterranean ones. And for that reason perhaps the strategy of the Mediterranean areas should focus on trying to attract this type of visitor in the winters, in which its climate is mild and also its occupation is lower.

Secondly, they appreciate very positively the open landscapes, the forests, the big parks, the not too crowded beaches, the mountain trails. In general, the population density in large Asian cities is much higher than in Europe and that is why they would usually prefer to visit a natural park in Europe than a very monumental but very crowded city.

The beauty of the ocean

Third, they like Mediterranean culture very much. Our food, our wines, our lifestyle. That is why they value very positively having experiences that allow them to enjoy these elements first-hand. To be able to go to small restaurants where they serve simple and quality food, fresh fruits and vegetables, seafood and grilled fish. They appreciate gastronomy as a culture, as a way of understanding and knowing better the area and the people they are visiting. That is why it is not strange to see them also in the best restaurants because they look especially for that quality experience.

In this line, immersive experiences are increasingly successful, such as visits to wineries where they can see the whole process of elaboration and end with a wine tasting. Or attending popular festivities and being able to live the atmosphere and traditions with local people, imbuing themselves with the party.

Umbrella Sky Project – Águeda, Portugal

In 2017 the number of Chinese tourists who visited Portugal rose by 80% over 2016 and in 2018 it was again the country that most increased its number of visitors to Portugal. Which is not surprising if we take into account the mild climate, the beautiful landscapes and the great gastronomy of Portugal. And, in addition, compared to European tourism that is very seasonal, the Asian tends to be distributed more during the year, because it does not seek the sun and the beach and enjoys much more a quiet place, without large crowds and cool temperatures. Portugal has all to make the most of these advantages and for the beginning of a beautiful friendship. Or for Lao Zi’s first miles for the journey of a thousand miles that many millions of people could start in the coming years. Will we be ready to welcome them?

Oeste with kids

There are studies that have calculated that children smile on average 400 times a day while adults only smile between 30 and 40 times a day. There are also several studies that have analyzed that children are much more creative than adults because they see life as a game and are able to imagine playful situations in any scenario.

Fortunately, there are times in adults’ lives when they have the opportunity to recover some of that joy, sharing games with their children, nephews or grandchildren. For that, it is enough to let go, get some imagination and let yourself be carried away by the little ones.

For several reasons, the Oeste region of Portugal is an ideal setting for children. In the first place, because it has a climate that favors all outdoor activities; the temperatures are mild all year round, never too cold or too hot. Second, because it has more than 100 km of coastline, with dozens of beaches, which are, as is known, the preferred scenario for children to play. And, thirdly, because it is still not a saturated destination, and does not have the long queues that always characterize the most typical children’s destinations.

So today our recommendation is that we all fit imaginary cowboy boots and hat, that we take our horses and that we throw ourselves to the great adventure of the conquest of the West.

The route can begin in Óbidos, which with its castle and its walls can be the best inspiration for any adventure. If we need a certain atmosphere to warm up, the ideal moment would be in summer, while the medieval fair takes place, with its famous combats between knights. During those days, costumes are rented and anyone can feel for a few hours the lord of the castle.

Another very appropriate time to go to Óbidos with children would be in December, during Vila Natal, when the whole town becomes a large theme park of games and activities related to Christmas. You can check in the city council website for dates and schedules of these two events: www.cm-obidos.pt

The beaches of the region are known worldwide thanks to surfing. The Praia Norte in Nazaré, with its giant waves, and Supertubos in Peniche, with the World League events, are the most famous but almost all have a surf school and instructors to show you how to start with this spectacular sport. We tend to think that surfing is not suitable for small children but in reality, as soon as they know how to swim well, they can start jumping on the board and at those ages it is when their approach is simpler and more natural and they immediately dominate the movements. For the little ones, the ideal is to start on beaches with little waves, like Gamboa in Peniche, where the veteran Escola Surf Peniche offers its courses.

For those who do not dare to try it, another fun and different beach plan is the Parque Acuático of São Martinho do Porto, a set of slides and jumps that is installed during the summer in the sea, a few meters from the shore.

And for children and not so children, an option that never fails to make you have a good time with friends is a kart race. In the region there are several kart tracks, all quite good, such as the Kiro Kartódromo do Oeste in Bombarral, the Dino Kart in Lourinhã and the Euroindy near Batalha. There is even an option for rainy days, the Indoor Karting Caldas da Rainha, which is somewhat smaller but also great fun. It is advisable to check beforehand the minimum ages, although most of them have different options to welcome the smallest too.

We can continue our adventure in the Jurassic period, looking for fossils and discovering all the secrets of the dinosaurs in the Dino Parque de Lourinhã.

And finally, for those who want to make the most of the boots and hat that they put on at the beginning of this entry and prefer not to bring their own horse, there are also several first class equestrian centers where you can give free rein to the cowboy you carry inside. We highlight the Alfeizerão International Equestrian Center, with very complete facilities and all kinds of services, and the Quintas de Óbidos, which also has magnificent facilities and is gradually starting up after some very troubled beginnings due to the crisis.

With all these elements and a bit of our imagination we have more than assured the smiles of children and adults.

Berlengas

The human being is curious and adventurous by nature. And anyone who visits Cape Carvoeiro, on the westernmost tip of the Peniche peninsula, would probably be curious about some islands that are seen in the distance, about 10 km away. It is the archipelago of the Berlengas, a group of small islets, with three peculiar histories that interweave surprisingly with the present.

In the history of the islands there is a very relevant first date, 1465. It was in that year when King Afonso V issued an order prohibiting hunting in the Berlengas, in what was a pioneering and very novel decision of care and attention for the nature. Anyone who has visited or seen pictures of the islands, and their coves with turquoise and crystalline waters, understands well what King Afonso could see and feel to dictate an order so unusual at that time. The line to the present, and the future, takes us to more than five centuries later, when in 2011 UNESCO declared the Berlengas a biosphere reserve and confirmed what the king’s sensibility valued long before.

In the century following that of King Afonso, in 1513, with the help of Queen Leonor, a small monastery of San Geronimo monks was founded on the islands, seeking a place for their spiritual retreat and to help the victims of the numerous shipwrecks that generated that coast. Saving the distances, is what nowadays also look for the many retreats that in different points of the coast of Peniche offer interesting combinations of mindfulness, yoga, meditation and surfing. We hope that modern history is more favorable to these initiatives because the monastery and the poor monks ended in closure just a few years after its founding because the monastery was frequently attacked by pirates and their members taken as slaves. Surely they were ahead of their time and did not get everyone to see the peace, beauty and spirituality that inspires this Atlantic coast.

The third story connects the past and the present century through sea, football and technology. In 2018 the company Apple shot a short film about a supposed historical rivalry between the football teams of Baleal and Peniche, who preferred to settle their matches on a neutral pitch and chose to move to the Berlengas. You can watch the video in this link. The story, obviously fictional, is aimed at showing the technical excellence of the phone model with which the ad is recorded. But, in a certain way, it allows us to understand the difficulty of those who live from the sea and to value better all those who ventured to sail the waters and discover the mysteries that they hid. It is a story that connects the past and the present through the sea and these special islands. If watching the video makes you want to visit the islands, please note that from June 1, 2022, there is a 3-euro tourist tax, Berlengas Pass, destined to improve the infrastructures and ensure that the number of visitors do not exceed 550 per day.

I will leave a light on

Lighthouse keeping has always been a challenging profession, suitable only for the more seasoned, for those capable of living in isolated places and under very harsh weather conditions. Nowadays, as the operation of the lighthouses has become more automatic, they have stopped needing personnel living permanently in them and new technologies have also made them less essential in navigation and have lost some prominence.

But they still keep intact their romantic and adventurous aura. That is why the initiative of the Portuguese government to open most of them for visits is highly appreciated. In the Oeste region we currently have only two lighthouses in operation, both very close to each other, one in Cape Carvoeiro in Peniche and the other just in front, in the Berlengas Islands.

But within a short distance to the north we also have those of Aveiro, Mondego (Figueira de Foz) and Penedo da Saudade (Marinha Grande). All of them can be visited every Tuesday, from 2pm to 5pm in summer and from 1.30pm to 4.30pm in winter. Before departing, it is convenient to check the website of the National Maritime Authority to verify that they are not closed for operational reasons or for any works.

And for those who prefer surfing the internet there is also the possibility of a virtual tour of the Bugio lighthouse, located in the middle of the mouth of the Tagus, near Lisbon.

So for those of us who sometimes need a light to guide us and an inspiring and different view of the sea, this could be an excellent plan for Tuesday afternoon. And if we go with children, surely we can imagine with them a great adventure of pirates and smugglers in that evocative environment. Obviously, in the playlist in the car, on our way to the lighthouse, we must not miss I will leave a light on, by Tom Walker.

The best beaches in the Oeste region

It is challenging to recommend beaches because not everyone likes the same things. Therefore, when someone asks us for advice on choosing a beach destination in the Oeste region, we always ask them first about their goals before answering. For those looking for surfing and fun, we usually suggest Baleal, Peniche, or Santa Cruz. For those who prefer family beaches and calm waters, we point them towards São Martinho or Nazaré. For those who want to have it all, towards the resorts around the lagoa de Óbidos. And for those who like bathing in warmer waters… towards a good spa.

And, for that very reason, we believe that it is best if our list of beaches does not have a ranking, as, for some, the top 1 may be a beach that, for others, is one of the least desirable. The ones that follow appear, as the cast in Woody Allen’s films, in alphabetical order:

– Baleal. The small peninsula of Baleal and its two beaches is a popular with the international crowd, especially with surfers from all over the world. It is also a recommended option for beginners, since it always has different difficulty levels spread across the various sections of the peninsula. The accommodation on offer between Baleal and Peniche is extensive, especially in apartments and youth hostels. For those looking for a good higher- end option, the MH Peniche is a very good hotel and has an excellent location, being close to both the beaches and the restaurant district.

– Bom Sucesso. The Bom Sucesso beach, on the southern side of the lagoa de Óbidos, has a wide sandy area, and calm, transparent waters, perfect for children’s games. Furthermore, it has the bonus of walking between the dunes to the open sea and enjoying the waves. There are several resorts in the area that offer an excellent level of accommodation. Our personal experience and opinion, suggest none offers such a complete experience as the Bom Sucesso Resort, with its distinctive design element but still complete with the main amenities of the other resorts.

– Física. Surfing destination, bustling and fun, with all the services and entertainment of the touristic town of Santa Cruz. The Noah Surf House has different accommodation options and has developed the boho-eco-chic concept like no other.

– Nazaré. Praia Norte is a must during the winter, to watch the pros taming the largest waves in the world. In the summer, the Nazaré main beach is a top-rated family destination, with all the services and entertainment one would expect. For those who prefer a somewhat quieter accommodation, away from the city center, the Vale d’Azenha hotel, with its modern architecture and characteristic style, may be a good option.

– Porto das Barcas. It is a beautiful beach, usually quiter, in an area still under development. Accommodations are cosy and family-friendly, highlighting the Silver Coast Vacation Inn.

– Porto Novo. This beach is in an area with very low density, near the small towns of Vimeiro and Maceira, but the Well Hotel & Spa, right by the beach, has sufficient attractions and services to enjoy a complete stay.

– Supertubos. Its perfect waves host the Surf World League in October and make this beach an absolute mecca for European surfers. It has a wide range of accommodation and good surf schools. For those who may prefer to stay this time in a hotel rather than in a Volkswagen minivan, the MH Atlántico is an excellent option.

It is impossible to condense 100 km of beaches in a few lines, but we hope we have helped you with this small selection, which you can expand by sharing your preferences in the comments. Come on, dive in…