We played in a previous entry with the idea that many people are even grateful when a rainy day comes in summer in Portugal and they have the perfect excuse to make different plans to the typical surf, beach and golf.
At the opposite extreme would be hot days. But, in one more example of how extremes meet, we see that practically all of the plans that we mentioned for those rainy days are also valid for days of extreme heat.
And there are also some additional ones. In an article in the Diario de Noticias during the August 2018 heat wave, Cabo Carvoeiro was cited as one of the coolest places in mainland Portugal:
And it is true that anyone who has visited the cape, with its impressive cliffs and its marvelous views of the coast and the Berlengas Islands, will have noticed that in this space of wild fusion between land and sea almost always does, at least, a gentle cool breeze.
Another plan along the same lines would be the Foz de Arelho cliffs, with their views over the sea and the lake. The plan combines especially well with the pleasant chill-outs on the Foz de Arelho beach.
And also in that line of chill-out, the garden in Areias do Seixo, where you can enjoy in good company the always pleasant combination of the night, the fire and the stars.
Óbidos receives thousands of visitors all year round but at Easter the usual festive atmosphere stops for a couple of hours to solemnly welcome its main procession, the Burial of the Lord, which is celebrated on Good Friday night and is followed with devotion by many people dressed in costumes of the time. http://www.semanasantaobidos.pt/
2. Folar de Páscoa
In all the central area of the country, one of the most typical traditions at Easter is to eat the Folar de Páscoa, a sweet bread made with flour, eggs, sugar, and cinnamon. The Folar can be decorated also with hard-boiled eggs and is sometimes also eaten with cheese, ham, and a glass of wine. If you haven’t tried it yet, we especially like the one they prepare at the Atelier do Doce, between Caldas da Rainha and Alcobaça, which has received numerous awards. https://atelierdodoce.pt/produto/folar-de-bronze/
3. The waves of Peniche
Although there are more and more brave people who also dare to ride the waves during the winter, Easter traditionally marks the beginning of the surf season on the beaches of Peniche. The temperatures, both outside and in the water, are beginning to become more pleasant and thousands of surfers start or resume their passion for the waves.
Surf in Peniche
4. Flamingos in the Lagoa
The end of winter also normally marks the time when the wetlands are at their peak and it is easy to see some of the flamingo families that nest in the lagoa de Óbidos during the winter season.
Flamingos in the Lagoa de Óbidos
5. Sardoal
We end with a suggestion that is not geographically within the Oeste region but is very close, and it is perfect for a day trip. Sardoal is a small town on the A23, near Abrantes, with deep religious traditions. During the procession of the Bonfires, public lighting is turned off and there is only light from torches and hundreds of small lamps that are placed in the windows and balconies of the houses. The churches are decorated with carpets of flowers and in the Main Church they put also wheat germinated in the dark, which gives it a particular yellow tone.http://www.cm-sardoal.pt/images/CMS/SemanaSanta2023/cartaz_semana_santa_2023_final.jpg
It is challenging to recommend beaches because not
everyone likes the same things. Therefore, when someone asks us
for advice on choosing a beach destination in the Oeste region, we always ask them first about their goals before answering. For those looking for surfing and fun, we usually
suggest Baleal, Peniche, or Santa Cruz. For those who prefer family
beaches and calm waters, we point them towards São Martinho or
Nazaré. For those who want to have it all, towards the resorts
around the lagoa de Óbidos. And for those who like bathing in
warmer waters… towards a good spa.
And, for that very reason, we believe that it is best if our list of
beaches does not have a ranking, as, for some, the top 1 may be a
beach that, for others, is one of the least desirable. The ones that
follow appear, as the cast in Woody Allen’s films, in
alphabetical order:
– Baleal. The small peninsula of Baleal and its two beaches is
a popular with the international crowd, especially with surfers from all over the world. It is also a recommended option for beginners,
since it always has different difficulty levels spread across the various sections of the peninsula. The accommodation on offer between Baleal and
Peniche is extensive, especially in apartments and
youth hostels. For those looking for a good higher-
end option, the MH Peniche is a very good hotel and has an
excellent location, being close to both the beaches and the restaurant district.
– Bom Sucesso. The Bom Sucesso beach, on the southern
side of the lagoa de Óbidos, has a wide sandy area, and calm,
transparent waters, perfect for children’s games.
Furthermore, it has the bonus of walking between the dunes to the open sea
and enjoying the waves. There are several resorts in the area that offer an excellent level of accommodation. Our personal experience and opinion, suggest none offers such a complete experience as the Bom Sucesso Resort, with its distinctive design element but still complete with the main amenities of the other resorts.
– Física. Surfing destination, bustling and fun, with all the
services and entertainment of the touristic town of Santa
Cruz. The Noah Surf House has different accommodation
options and has developed the boho-eco-chic concept like no other.
– Nazaré. Praia Norte is a must during the winter, to watch the pros taming the largest waves in the world. In the summer, the Nazaré main beach is a top-rated family destination, with all the services and entertainment one would expect. For those who prefer a somewhat quieter accommodation, away from the city center, the Vale d’Azenha hotel, with its modern architecture and characteristic style, may be a good option.
– Porto das Barcas. It is a beautiful beach, usually quiter, in an area still under development. Accommodations are cosy and family-friendly, highlighting the Silver Coast Vacation Inn.
– Porto Novo. This beach is in an area with very low density,
near the small towns of Vimeiro and Maceira, but the Well Hotel & Spa, right by the beach, has sufficient attractions and
services to enjoy a complete stay.
– Supertubos. Its perfect waves host the Surf World League in
October and make this beach an absolute mecca for
European surfers. It has a wide range of accommodation and
good surf schools. For those who may prefer to stay this time
in a hotel rather than in a Volkswagen minivan, the MH Atlántico is an excellent option.
It is impossible to condense 100 km of beaches in a few lines, but
we hope we have helped you with this small selection, which you
can expand by sharing your preferences in the
comments. Come on, dive in…
The binge-watchers will remember The West Wing, a TV show that was very popular for seven seasons between the end of the last century and the beginning of the present. It was a political thriller starring Martin Sheen that offered a new perspective into the inner workings of the White House.
It was during those same years that took place the design and initial development of what is now one of the biggest attractions in Portugal and a real luxury for any golf lover: the four courses in the lagoa de Óbidos area. Praia del Rey, Guardian Bom Sucesso, Royal Obidos and West Cliffs are four excellent courses, all of them already decorated with numerous international awards and a good chance of many more with their rising reputation. It is truly amazing they offer golf players the opportunity to play in four world-class courses within a mere five-minute drive of each other. Paraphrasing the TV show, we could call them “The West Swing”.
Today, with many of you practicing again your swings for the holiday weeks ahead, we are going to present some of the features of these four courses and some ideas and tips for those who do not know them yet.
The first of the courses to open its doors was Praia del Rey, in 1997. Designed by Cabell B. Robinson, it combines holes between pine forests and links along the ocean. The wind can sometimes be the biggest challenge, so those who do not have time to play a full round may have to choose depending on the weather conditions of that day; the back nine have spectacular views of the Atlantic coast but they are also the most challenging if the wind is blowing.
Guardian Bom Sucesso opened in 2008, with the advantage of being located in a stunning design and architecture resort, with houses crafted by some of the best architects in the world. Another curious element in Bom Sucesso is that, being in the universe of the European Tour, it regularly hosts professional events and activities, which allows the amateur player to see how closely, or far away, their cards are from those of the professionals. Here you can see for example the card of the players who played the Q School of the European Tour in October 2018 and 2019.
The course was designed by Donald Steel and although it has some interesting and complicated holes, overall it can be said that it has a level of difficulty somewhat lower than that of the neighboring courses, especially since it is less exposed to the wind. From the tee of the spectacular 17th hole we can enjoy the best views of the entire area.
The third course in chronological order was Royal Óbidos. It was the last course designed by the great Seve Ballesteros and has some holes that confirm Seve’s promise to create a wonderful place for golf here. If we can only do nine holes, it is worth choosing the front nine, which look towards the lagoa de Óbidos area and include the charismatic 3rd hole, a par 3 with an island green where it is necessary to combine the maximum precision in choosing the club and to avoid getting distracted by the beautiful views of the lagoon.
The last of the courses to open, in 2017, was West Cliffs, which started with great momentum after being chosen the “Best new course in the world” by the World Golf Awards. Designed by Cynthia Dye, the granddaughter of the legendary Pete Dye, it is a demanding course but one of great natural beauty among the dunes.
The four courses offer good deals to try a different one every day and they also offer special prices in the off-season and in the late afternoon games.
As if that wasn’t enough to whet the appetite of any keen golfer, it is necessary to mention two other interesting golf options. First, halfway between Óbidos and Lisbon, in the Torres Vedras area, is the Dolce Campo Real, an 18-hole course designed by Martin Ebert whilst he was still on the Donald Steel design team. The course opened in 2005 and has been gradually consolidating since. In 2016, it was chosen the best golf resort in Portugal in the Global Brand Awards. It is a different course, with many more trees, and slopes that can be a good workout for those looking for a good dose of exercise whilst indulging in their favourite pastime of golf.
And, finally, a less orthodox option but one that may also be of interest, would be the nine-hole course in Botado, next to the MH Atlántico hotel, 1 km south of Peniche. It is much less maintained, even a bit wild in some areas, but precisely because of this it benefits from having less players and it can be the ideal option for beginners or families with children that can go into the course without much pressure. And being next to the beaches of Supertubos and Consolação, it has some holes with views of the ocean very comparable to those of its neighbors of greater pedigree. In short, an interesting alternative to complete the golf options in this scenic area.
And you? Have you played in these courses? Do you have special memories of a hole in particular?
In English it is frequently said that curiosity killed the cat. The origin of the expression goes back several centuries; even Shakespeare used a similar formula in one of his works, and it has continued to be used to this day. What is not so well known is a second part, which began to be used at the beginning of the 20th century in the United States; it says that satisfaction brought it back. This is intended to express that, while an excess of curiosity can be dangerous or counterproductive, the fact of finding satisfactory answers can compensate for the risk or effort.
In Nave Lagoa we like seeking satisfaction through the answers. We are going to use this blog to share discoveries, create a small community in which we help each other with clues to navigate the roads, physical or cultural, and the written and unwritten rules of the Oeste region of Portugal. We will talk about the lesser known experiences of Óbidos, Nazaré, Caldas da Rainha or Peniche, the most recommended beaches and also about plans for those who do not like the sand so much.
We will share experiences around multiple topics, from what is an RNH (which is not a new blood factor), to why in this area those who seek to rediscover oneself sometimes achieve it earlier relying on a surfguru that with more traditional help.
To begin with, today we will explain the differences between ecovias, ciclovias and ecopistas, which may sound similar but are not the same. We are going to do it with three local examples:
Ecovía Várzea da Rainha: An ecovia can be traveled on foot or by bicycle and usually connects areas of environmental interest. In the information from the Cámara Municipal de Óbidos you can see well described and detailed the one we like the most in the area, which goes from the Óbidos train station to the beach of Bom Sucesso at the lagoa. It includes around 15 kms of trail (and only 500 m of road) that go through fields of fruit trees and then border the south of the lagoon. The highlight here, woubl be the views of Óbidos Castle from the road at sunset. If possible, try to avoid going during weekends of good weather as there can be too much human noise disturbing the tranquility of the lagoon.
Ciclovía São Pedro de Moel: A ciclovia is a bike path, a space for the circulation of bicycles. In the province of Leiria you can find one of the best examples that a cyclist can find in the world: the Ciclovia Estrada Atlántica. From Nazaré to the North there are more than 100 km of asphalt lane, parallel but physically separated from the road, and with a spectacular route among forests, dunes and small fishing villages. The section that we like most runs between the lighthouse of São Pedro de Moel and Praia da Vieira. This section has 14 kms of great beauty but it is also worth exploring all the rest of the sections of the Estrada Atlantica and its special atmosphere.
Ecopista do Vouga: And finally, the word that gives title to this entry, and that is clearly the most evocative of the three because it inevitably leads one to think about ideas and clues to enjoy the most of Nature, of Nature with a capital N. An ecopista is usually an old railway route reconverted to a pedestrian or cyclist route. This is what in Spain and other European countries are called Greenways but in Portugal are called Ecopistas because the denomination of Via Verde was already used for automatic lanes on toll roads and the devices to use them. The ecopistas tend to be roads of great scenic beauty, in places with little or no traffic. In Portugal there are several, especially in the North, but we especially like the Vouga one, which runs parallel to the river between Viseu and the vicinity of Aveiro.
Do you know other routes in the area that are worthwhile exploring? Please share your experiences with us.
