Nave Lagoa
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Author: Andreia

438,000 reasons to go to Santiago

In 2022, 438,000 people completed at least 100 kilometers walking or 200 by bike on the Route of Saint Jacques (Camino de Santiago). To understand the growing tendency of the figure, we can see that in 1990 the trip was done by 5,000 people and in 2000 by 55,000. In 2018 it was done by 327,000 and, although in 2020 and 2021 the figures suffered the impact of the COVID19 pandemic, in 2022 they returned stronger than ever and set a new all-time record of 438,000 pilgrims arriving to Santiago de Compostela.

But, what brings so many people to take the Camino to Santiago? In its medieval origins it was done mainly for spiritual reasons, seeking the intercession of the Apostle Santiago or the indulgence derived from the pilgrimage. And today many pilgrims still have a religious motive in their backpack. But for the great majority, the Camino is a journey within oneself, a time for reflection, shared effort and companionship. The Camino provides a very intense contact with nature through the landscape, but also with human nature through effort, kindness, hospitality, overcoming challenges and exchanging experiences with other walkers.

Its progressive revitalization during the second half of the 20th century has been associated with the latent desire in many people to recover the European roots, to go more slowly instead of running and to get things done with time and effort instead of instantly.

It can be explained in many ways but there will probably be 438,000 different reasons and they will all be good to go to this exceptional school of humanity for a few days.

One of the great wonders of the Camino is that it passes by almost all countries in Europe; there are more than 80,000 kilometers of marked ways. And although most of the people follow the so-called Camino Francés (the French Way) which crosses the Pyrenees and travels through northern Spain through Pamplona, ​​Burgos and León to Santiago, other alternative routes are becoming very popular too, because they are a bit less crowded and also a little closer to the simplicity and inner peace that one looks for in this adventure.

The Portuguese Caminho, from Lisbon to Santiago, is especially recommended for those who want to enjoy a more personal experience, with more nature and not that many crowds. The Caminho passes through Santarem, Coimbra and Porto as the most relevant cities and can be seen very well detailed on the Gronze website (https://www.gronze.com/camino-portugues).

The Convento de Cristo in Tomar

But we want to highlight a central section of it, which runs very close to the Oeste region, and which is especially recommended for those who want to live the part of the Caminho closest to nature. It is the stretch between Tomar and Coimbra. Tomar, the point of origin is a small city commanded by the Convento de Cristo, an imposing Templar castle, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and one of the most beautiful examples of Manueline Gothic architecture. Coimbra is hustle, charm and small alleys to get lost. And, in between, 90 kilometers of Caminho through enchanted forests, along paths between fruit trees and small villages in which there is always a local willing to offer the pilgrim a few words of advice or any help needed. The signage is especially good, in part because the route is at the same time the Camino de Santiago going North and the Caminho de Fatima going South, so the signposts have the characteristic yellow arrow towards Santiago on one side and the blue arrow to Fatima on the other. That also causes interesting encounters between walkers in one direction and another, opposed in the direction, but united by a similar search.

Fátima and Santiago

And for those who want to have only an appetizer, with a child-friendly experience, you can consider visiting the Convento de Cristo in Tomar, eating at any of the nice restaurants in the pedestrian zone of the city, like O Tabuleiro for example, and making the first four kilometers, which run parallel to the Nabão river and are especially beautiful. Surely more than one after that appetizer will want to consider in the future trying other dishes of the Camino. Buen Camino!

Meditation… in the Oeste region beaches

There are several centers in the Oeste region of Portugal offering courses or retreats for yoga, mindfulness or meditation. Some initiatives are temporary or seasonal and not very easy to find. Among the permanent ones, Ponto Sereno in Leiria, Vitality in Praia da Areia Branca or Yoga para iniciantes Caldas can be a good option to start getting to know this kind of practices and see if they can also fit us. One of the best initiatives are the retreats offered by Budha Retreats in the small village of Columbeira, between Bombarral and Peniche, where you can do yoga only or yoga and surf retreats. And, of course, we especially recommend the great Heart Zü, who teaches both group and private lessons in Lisbon and in Óbidos.

Even just fifteen minutes a day can make a big difference, and bring several positive effects, especially at the level of concentration, improvement in memory and general well-being. And these positive effects can be achieved by several ways; mindfulness, meditation, tai chi, yoga or even the Alexander technique all share similar basic principles, of positivity, of relaxation, of being concentrated in the present moment and of postural benefits, so it is good to experiment and see what works best for each one of us.

And, what is also common to all these paths is that in combination with the beach they multiply its positive effects. It is well known that the sea and the beach are very beneficial for our health: the negative ions of the sea breeze increase the levels of serotonin and reduce our anxiety; the iodine present in the water and the breeze clean our airways and help us to oxygenate the organism; and minerals present in water are very positive for skin conditions. All this usually produces a relaxing and well-being effect, very positive. But, if to all these effects we add the benefits of sitting or lying down for a few minutes and practicing some form of relaxation, we can have an even more complete experience.

Obviously, the ideal is to be able to do it with some tranquility, enjoying only the sound of the waves. To do this, the beaches of the Oeste region are just perfect because they tend to be large and allow easily to find that meeting point between us, nature and inner peace. Going first thing in the morning or walking a bit to a quiet area ensure the best experience.

The beach at sunrise has something special, especially when the low tide during the night has left the sand smooth and perfect, as if a new carpet of several kilometers has been placed just for us. Walking on the sand in those moments and looking back, seeing only our footprints, always produces a strange feeling of intimacy and fusion with the environment.

Plans for days of extreme heat in Portugal

We played in a previous entry with the idea that many people are even grateful when a rainy day comes in summer in Portugal and they have the perfect excuse to make different plans to the typical surf, beach and golf.

At the opposite extreme would be hot days. But, in one more example of how extremes meet, we see that practically all of the plans that we mentioned for those rainy days are also valid for days of extreme heat.

And there are also some additional ones. In an article in the Diario de Noticias during the August 2018 heat wave, Cabo Carvoeiro was cited as one of the coolest places in mainland Portugal:

https://www.dn.pt/pais/interior/fugir-do-calor-conheca-os-locais-mais-frescos-de-portugal-continental-9672712.html

And it is true that anyone who has visited the cape, with its impressive cliffs and its marvelous views of the coast and the Berlengas Islands, will have noticed that in this space of wild fusion between land and sea almost always does, at least, a gentle cool breeze.

Another plan along the same lines would be the Foz de Arelho cliffs, with their views over the sea and the lake. The plan combines especially well with the pleasant chill-outs on the Foz de Arelho beach.

And also in that line of chill-out, the garden in Areias do Seixo, where you can enjoy in good company the always pleasant combination of the night, the fire and the stars.

5 tips to enjoy Easter in the Oeste region of Portugal

1. Processions in Óbidos

Óbidos receives thousands of visitors all year round but at Easter the usual festive atmosphere stops for a couple of hours to solemnly welcome its main procession, the Burial of the Lord, which is celebrated on Good Friday night and is followed with devotion by many people dressed in costumes of the time. http://www.semanasantaobidos.pt/

2. Folar de Páscoa

In all the central area of the country, one of the most typical traditions at Easter is to eat the Folar de Páscoa, a sweet bread made with flour, eggs, sugar, and cinnamon. The Folar can be decorated also with hard-boiled eggs and is sometimes also eaten with cheese, ham, and a glass of wine. If you haven’t tried it yet, we especially like the one they prepare at the Atelier do Doce, between Caldas da Rainha and Alcobaça, which has received numerous awards. https://atelierdodoce.pt/produto/folar-de-bronze/

3. The waves of Peniche

Although there are more and more brave people who also dare to ride the waves during the winter, Easter traditionally marks the beginning of the surf season on the beaches of Peniche. The temperatures, both outside and in the water, are beginning to become more pleasant and thousands of surfers start or resume their passion for the waves.

Surf in Peniche

4. Flamingos in the Lagoa

The end of winter also normally marks the time when the wetlands are at their peak and it is easy to see some of the flamingo families that nest in the lagoa de Óbidos during the winter season.

Flamingos in the Lagoa de Óbidos

5. Sardoal

We end with a suggestion that is not geographically within the Oeste region but is very close, and it is perfect for a day trip. Sardoal is a small town on the A23, near Abrantes, with deep religious traditions. During the procession of the Bonfires, public lighting is turned off and there is only light from torches and hundreds of small lamps that are placed in the windows and balconies of the houses. The churches are decorated with carpets of flowers and in the Main Church they put also wheat germinated in the dark, which gives it a particular yellow tone.http://www.cm-sardoal.pt/images/CMS/SemanaSanta2023/cartaz_semana_santa_2023_final.jpg

Asian Travelers are back

All cultures appreciate the mixture of simplicity and depth that Chinese proverbs have been offering since ancient times. We especially like the one from Lao Zi that says that a journey of a thousand miles begins with the first step.

For decades China has been a disciplined and powerful but very self-centered country. But in the 21st century, for several internal and external reasons, China has taken off as a great global power, moving from an economy based on low-cost manufactures to a more complete one, in which new technologies have great importance. This has generated very powerful companies, with great export strength, which have started to gain a global presence that is more than remarkable. And it has also given rise to a growing middle class, with the capacity to travel and to enjoy previously impossible luxuries.

To understand the economic importance that these new travelers can have, according to the official information from the Ministry of Tourism of Portugal, in 2017 a Spanish tourist spent an average of 89 euros a day in Portugal, while a Chinese one spent 642 euros. That is, a Chinese tourist spent in one day what a Spanish did in a whole week. The pandemic meant a total stop in these trips but they resumed in 2023 and at an exceptionally high rate: in the ten days around the Chinese New Year there have been nearly 2 billion movements of Chinese citizens.

Therefore, it is not surprising that there is a growing interest in Europe to try to re-attract this type of tourists, to offer them something that makes them want to come back again and to recommend the trip to their millions of compatriots. And what attracts this type of traveler most?

In the first place, and surprising as it may seem, the weather. A day with blue skies and cool temperatures, with a light breeze, is one of the elements that can most attract an Asian traveler, who often suffers at home from hot humid days, with a sticky and uncomfortable heat. That is why it is easier to have a more positive experience in the cool summers of the Spanish and Portuguese Atlantic coast than in the Mediterranean ones. And for that reason perhaps the strategy of the Mediterranean areas should focus on trying to attract this type of visitor in the winters, in which its climate is mild and also its occupation is lower.

Secondly, they appreciate very positively the open landscapes, the forests, the big parks, the not too crowded beaches, the mountain trails. In general, the population density in large Asian cities is much higher than in Europe and that is why they would usually prefer to visit a natural park in Europe than a very monumental but very crowded city.

The beauty of the ocean

Third, they like Mediterranean culture very much. Our food, our wines, our lifestyle. That is why they value very positively having experiences that allow them to enjoy these elements first-hand. To be able to go to small restaurants where they serve simple and quality food, fresh fruits and vegetables, seafood and grilled fish. They appreciate gastronomy as a culture, as a way of understanding and knowing better the area and the people they are visiting. That is why it is not strange to see them also in the best restaurants because they look especially for that quality experience.

In this line, immersive experiences are increasingly successful, such as visits to wineries where they can see the whole process of elaboration and end with a wine tasting. Or attending popular festivities and being able to live the atmosphere and traditions with local people, imbuing themselves with the party.

Umbrella Sky Project – Águeda, Portugal

In 2017 the number of Chinese tourists who visited Portugal rose by 80% over 2016 and in 2018 it was again the country that most increased its number of visitors to Portugal. Which is not surprising if we take into account the mild climate, the beautiful landscapes and the great gastronomy of Portugal. And, in addition, compared to European tourism that is very seasonal, the Asian tends to be distributed more during the year, because it does not seek the sun and the beach and enjoys much more a quiet place, without large crowds and cool temperatures. Portugal has all to make the most of these advantages and for the beginning of a beautiful friendship. Or for Lao Zi’s first miles for the journey of a thousand miles that many millions of people could start in the coming years. Will we be ready to welcome them?

Oeste with kids

There are studies that have calculated that children smile on average 400 times a day while adults only smile between 30 and 40 times a day. There are also several studies that have analyzed that children are much more creative than adults because they see life as a game and are able to imagine playful situations in any scenario.

Fortunately, there are times in adults’ lives when they have the opportunity to recover some of that joy, sharing games with their children, nephews or grandchildren. For that, it is enough to let go, get some imagination and let yourself be carried away by the little ones.

For several reasons, the Oeste region of Portugal is an ideal setting for children. In the first place, because it has a climate that favors all outdoor activities; the temperatures are mild all year round, never too cold or too hot. Second, because it has more than 100 km of coastline, with dozens of beaches, which are, as is known, the preferred scenario for children to play. And, thirdly, because it is still not a saturated destination, and does not have the long queues that always characterize the most typical children’s destinations.

So today our recommendation is that we all fit imaginary cowboy boots and hat, that we take our horses and that we throw ourselves to the great adventure of the conquest of the West.

The route can begin in Óbidos, which with its castle and its walls can be the best inspiration for any adventure. If we need a certain atmosphere to warm up, the ideal moment would be in summer, while the medieval fair takes place, with its famous combats between knights. During those days, costumes are rented and anyone can feel for a few hours the lord of the castle.

Another very appropriate time to go to Óbidos with children would be in December, during Vila Natal, when the whole town becomes a large theme park of games and activities related to Christmas. You can check in the city council website for dates and schedules of these two events: www.cm-obidos.pt

The beaches of the region are known worldwide thanks to surfing. The Praia Norte in Nazaré, with its giant waves, and Supertubos in Peniche, with the World League events, are the most famous but almost all have a surf school and instructors to show you how to start with this spectacular sport. We tend to think that surfing is not suitable for small children but in reality, as soon as they know how to swim well, they can start jumping on the board and at those ages it is when their approach is simpler and more natural and they immediately dominate the movements. For the little ones, the ideal is to start on beaches with little waves, like Gamboa in Peniche, where the veteran Escola Surf Peniche offers its courses.

For those who do not dare to try it, another fun and different beach plan is the Parque Acuático of São Martinho do Porto, a set of slides and jumps that is installed during the summer in the sea, a few meters from the shore.

And for children and not so children, an option that never fails to make you have a good time with friends is a kart race. In the region there are several kart tracks, all quite good, such as the Kiro Kartódromo do Oeste in Bombarral, the Dino Kart in Lourinhã and the Euroindy near Batalha. There is even an option for rainy days, the Indoor Karting Caldas da Rainha, which is somewhat smaller but also great fun. It is advisable to check beforehand the minimum ages, although most of them have different options to welcome the smallest too.

We can continue our adventure in the Jurassic period, looking for fossils and discovering all the secrets of the dinosaurs in the Dino Parque de Lourinhã.

And finally, for those who want to make the most of the boots and hat that they put on at the beginning of this entry and prefer not to bring their own horse, there are also several first class equestrian centers where you can give free rein to the cowboy you carry inside. We highlight the Alfeizerão International Equestrian Center, with very complete facilities and all kinds of services, and the Quintas de Óbidos, which also has magnificent facilities and is gradually starting up after some very troubled beginnings due to the crisis.

With all these elements and a bit of our imagination we have more than assured the smiles of children and adults.

The best 7 wineries to visit in the West region of Portugal

World Wine Tourism Day is celebrated yearly on the second Sunday of November as an initiative of the European network of wine cities to publicize their activities and experiences.

As we have already highlighted on several occasions in this blog, in the Oeste region of Portugal there are many interesting wineries that are worth visiting, in combination with the excellent gastronomy and cultural richness of the region.

In the Torres Vedras area, we especially recommend Adega Mae, which has several internationally awarded wines. And less than a kilometer from there, it is also interesting to visit the Quinta da Almiara, with its modern exterior design.

In the Óbidos and Bombarral area, we recommend Quinta do Sanguinhal, with its excellent value for money wines, and Quinta do Gradil, one of the oldest wineries in the area.

And in the Alenquer area, don’t miss the magnificent Quinta do Monte D’Oiro or the Quinta de Pancas, founded in 1495 and a pioneer in introducing French varieties to Portugal.

Brandy lovers also have an appointment in November with the Aguardente DOC Lourinhã Gastronomic Fortnight, which this year reaches its eleventh edition and is already a world reference. And in the Óbidos area, also stand out the original liquor tourism experiences proposed by Vila das Rainhas around its famous cherry liqueur.

Most of these visits are indoors and, therefore, perfect to enjoy during the autumn and winter months. So, let’s take advantage of these days and fully enjoy this array of wine tourism experiences that are offered in the Oeste region.

Eutopia

On October 1st and 2nd Bom Sucesso Resort hosted the first edition of Eutopia, a cultural festival with more that fifty activities, including concerts, theater, dance, circus or conversations with artists.

The Nave held some of the conferences and a great artistic exhibition, Mercado P’la Arte, that brought to the resort the works of more than twenty artists.

The event was a great success and left everybody looking forward to the next edition.

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A summer full of culture and activities

At Nave Lagoa, not only have we not closed for vacations during the month of August, but we have enjoyed a very special summer, full of culture and diverse activities. We started the month with a wonderful piano concert in the Central Nave, led by the young master Efrat Berestizhevsky.

The acoustic in the Central Nave is excellent for all kinds of concerts

A few days later we hosted the traditional summer party at Bom Sucesso Resort, which on this occasion was Hawaiian and had large doses of creativity and fun.

Aloha!

The pop band of Juan Cobo and Los Milans delighted us with their original songs and the support of their unconditional followers. And we ended the month with a sound meditation in which more than 50 people relaxed with the incredible sounds of the gong and the Tibetan quartz bowls brought by Andrea Klimowitz. Quite an experience!

Spanish and Portuguese wines

Saramago is credited with saying that Spain and Portugal were like two Siamese twins joined at the back who had never seen each other's faces. The phrase represented well that peculiar relationship of geographical proximity and practical distance that meant that most Spaniards barely knew Lisbon, Porto, the bacalhau dourado and the towels. Today that has clearly changed, there are many more trips between the two countries and relations are closer. But there is one matter in which the situation of the Siameses is still present: wines. In Spain the sale of Portuguese wine is practically testimonial and, in Portugal, Spanish wines do not have any presence either. Even though there are wines like the Spanish from Ribera del Duero, very similar in climate and structure to the appreciated vinhos do Douro. Or the Alvariños, which are produced with excellent quality on both sides of the border. That is why from this platform we applaud and celebrate the initiative of A CAVE, the small pop-up store that has opened this summer in one of NAVE LAGOA’s spaces, with which an interesting selection of Spanish wines is presented in Portugal, with riojas, riberas, ruedas, cavas, various Galician wines and even some of Extremadura. Little by little the two countries get to know each other better and wine is undoubtedly an unbeatable letter of introduction for both. Congratulations and long live the wine!